EWS Deletion Chip

We’re often asked for an EWS delete chip. That is, a chip that boosts the horsepower of their 1995 325i and deletes the EWS protection at the same time.

About the EWS System

EWS is an anti-theft system installed in BMW cars, and it comes in different flavors (I, II, III, ETC.). Here, we will refer specifically to EWS-II, which was installed in 1995 cars through 1998. Models later than 1998 also use the EWS system, but with more advanced versions, like EWS-III.

Please note that this article focuses on the Bosch 0 261 200 413 DME (ECU) and works only for the 1994 and 1995 325i E36. If you have a car earlier than 1994 or later than 1995, or if the ECU is Siemens instead of Bosch, this article will not apply.

The immobilizer unit in your BMW (EWS unit) manages the security system, ensuring the codes in your transponder car keys (coded RFID chip inside the key handle) match the codes stored in the EWS unit. If they match, it sends an OK signal to the DME to start the engine. Otherwise, it turns off the starter and ignition.

Block diagram of the EWS-II system in your 325i E36

Transponder key

One purpose of the EWS DELETE chips is to turn off the security system, so the car can start and run with any key as long as it is mechanically cut to match the lock cylinder. The other purpose is to boost performance through reprogrammed fuel and ignition maps.

Our chip is similar to the chip in the video below, but more than 300% less expensive. It was designed for the non-EWS DME, so it has no EWS code. So if you use it in your EWS-enabled 413 DME, it will disable the EWS and boost performance. For the chip to work properly, you’ll need to make a few simple wiring modifications to the EWS module.

You may check some of this information in the video below from the “Mybimmerspace” (My Bimmer Space) guy on his YouTube channel.

If you are installing a chip in this DME (ECM/ECU) model, below you can check the information about it:

Installing a Chip on the 1993-1995 BMW 325i/525i

By the way, if you happen to touch the battery with your DME chassis while it is still connected to the wiring harness, note that while that could damage the DME, most of the time what gets damaged is the Airflow meter, as explained in the link below:

Engine problems after touching the battery terminal with the ECM of my 1994 BMW 325i

The non-EWS DME computers always have a maroon-colored label. The EWS-enabled DMEs have a silver-colored label instead. That’s the only way to tell them apart, since both have the same part number (“0 261 200 413”) and are made by Bosch.

As you can see in the video above, the wires you will need to tamper with are two wires for enabling the starter and one wire that sends a signal from the EWS module to the DME (wire #66 in the DME):

1. Cut the EWS wire coming from the EWS module (green in most cases). It connects to pin #66 on the DME module. This will ensure no EWS signal to the DME.

Identifying wire #66

2. Cut wires #1 and #3 from the EWS module and join the parts of the wires that go away from the module, and cover with insulating tape or wire nuts. This will enable the starter.

Location of the EWS module

The cons of this are, of course, that your car will no longer be protected by the EWS system as long as you have this modification in place. The pros are: (1) your car will have more power if using this chip, and (2) you won’t be stranded if the EWS system malfunctions, which is a situation that is more common than you think. Another pro is that you can make as many copies of your keys as you want, and you will not have to pay for pricey programming services from the dealer.

Below are pictures showing how to reach the EWS Control Module, but you will likely find it easier to watch the video above.

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